After an incredible first week on our 3 week California road trip exploring LA, Santa Barbara, SLO, Big Sur and Carmel, we continue the adventure up the coast to San Francisco to Lake Tahoe and then further on to Yosemite national park. If you haven’t checked out part 1 yet, see it here first.
PART 2: SAN FRANCISCO - TAHOE - YOSEMITE
San Francisco in 48 hours
Due to our jam-packed schedule we had 48 hours in San Francisco before we needed to be back on the road. We stayed fairly central at the Hayes Valley Inn, a great little B&B with shared bathrooms and a decent breakfast and did everything from the classic tourist attractions of Alcatraz and Golden Gate park to the not so touristy.
Of course we managed to find the time to cycle over the Golden Gate bridge to the lovely sunny town of Sausalito on the other side. The whole city was covered in cloud but just over the bridge we were met by glorious sunshine and some serious holiday vibes. Finding a bar or restaurant that will allow you to have drinks overlooking the water did prove to be challenging. However, we managed to find a bar called the Barrel House Tavern with a gorgeous terrace over the water and even though we did have to buy some nibbles to go with our drinks, the view made it worth it.
There is just so much to say about this city that I’m going to write a separate post on everything that we did, ate and loved. It can’t possibly be covered in just a few paragraphs. For now, I’ll say that 48 hours is enough to see and do a lot but you could easily spend a lot longer here.
MY TOP PICKS: Cycle over the Golden Gate bridge to Sausalito for summery vibes, eat pizza at Tony’s Pizza in Little Italy – it’ll blow your mind, hunt out local food trucks along the sea front at ‘Off the Grid’.
Where we stayed: Hayes Valley Inn (B&B), £80/night including breakfast
14
mile hike to Half Dome
1
Truly epic pizza
2
states crossed
South Lake Tahoe
I first heard of Lake Tahoe watching skiing videos of Squaw Valley a few years back but at that point I really knew nothing about it. I didn’t even consider it as a summer destination. Oh how wrong I was. Tahoe is truly stunning at any time of year and is the perfect destination for any outdoor adventure lover. We made the somewhat difficult decision to skip Napa Valley and visit South Lake Tahoe instead. As it turns out, this stop turned out to be our favourite and completely worth those extra few hours on the road.
Driving from San Fran you will reach Eldorado National Forest about an hour from South Lake Tahoe. The drive itself is an absolute treat and you’ll find yourself winding up mountain roads through forests and past waterfalls. For us it was one of those drives where you just stare out of the window in awe and we knew we were in love straight away.
There is so much to do and see, from hiking the trails, to endless water sports, gorgeous beaches such as Eldorado beach and even chancing your luck at the casinos on the Nevada stateline. Head slightly out of town 12 miles north to Emerald Bay State Park for absolutely breath-taking panoramic views but don’t miss the viewpoints along the road on the way up. From Vikingsholm car park in Emerald Bay you can take the 1 mile hike down to Vikingsholm.
Tahoe from the water
A trip to Lake Tahoe would not be complete without actually getting out onto the lake. Whether it’s by boat, kayak, paddle board or even parasailing, make sure to see the lake from this different perspective. We managed to go parasailing over the lake with Ski Run Boat Company and the views were absolutely unreal. The boat ride alone is pretty incredible. This can be quite pricey but if you’re willing to go to a sales presentation for a couple hours one morning, then you can get it for absolutely NOTHING. Just make sure you don’t come out of the sales presentation with a time share in the Bahamas, unless that’s what you’re into.
South Lake Tahoe isn’t renowned for it’s food but there are some pretty decent spots dotted about. Check out Blue Angel Cafe for a kale salad that actually tastes good (we went back twice for this bad boy) or Riva Grill on the Lake for beautiful views and upmarket burgers.
MY TOP PICKS: Race around the lake on a boat, drive up to Emerald bay & hike to Vikingsholm.
Where we stayed: Postmarc Hotel & Spa Suites, approx £95/night for a room with a spa bath (worth it)
The Tioga pass
Leaving South Lake Tahoe was difficult. We spent 3.5 days there and easily could have lived there for a month hiking, biking and swimming. But on a trip like this there’s no time to waste and you have to be strict with yourself on when to leave one place for another. Just because you fall in love with one place doesn’t mean the next stop won’t be just as amazing.
If you enter SLT to Yosemite in google maps it will go out of its way to take you into Yosemite from the West. IGNORE THIS. I believe the reason for this is that the main road from the East into Yosemite, the Tioga Pass, is often closed due to weather conditions. It is often closed between the months of November and May so really is only an option if your trip happens to fall over the summer. Check the National Park Service website for current road closures to be on the safe side.
However, if the road is open and the weather is clear, then you are in for a real treat. The Tioga Pass winds up through the mountains from Lee Vining all the way to the hub of Yosemite Valley. Along the way you will be spoilt for choice with viewpoints and could easily spend hours making your way along. Allow time for this or you may regret it.
Glacier Point & Yosemite Valley
Glacier point is an incredible viewpoint over the entire valley with views of Half dome and Yosemite falls. We were a little unlucky and didn’t get a chance to visit Glacier point due to fires while we were visiting. However, we couldn’t be too disappointed due to our planned hike for the following day.
As you drive further into Yosemite you will eventually reach the valley floor. From here you can see Yosemite Falls, but how visible it is is down to the time of year and weather. When we were there (middle of September) it was more of a trickle than an intense waterfall, but it was beautiful nonetheless.
Half dome village
There are so many options for accommodation in Yosemite from upmarket hotels to campsites and lodges. We opted for a basic unheated tent cabin in Half Dome village simply due to its excellent location. The tents are basic, but you are right in the centre of it all, close to trailheads and the bus service. Follow the rules regarding bear lockers and car parking, it’s only fair as you are essentially in their home. We did not see a bear during our stay, but they do live in the area so be careful.
The hike to Half Dome
There is an endless selection of hiking trails to suit most abilities and time restraints. Do some research before on what you most want to see and the distances you are willing to cover. We made the decision to set ourselves a challenge and embark on the longest day hike in the park, the hike to Half Dome. This hike is a challenge to most hikers, is between 14 – 16 miles and can take from 10 – 12 hours. It is not recommended to those unfit or unprepared and should be taken seriously.
The day before the hike, I was still suffering from a cold that seemed to be lingering on forever. However, after a big meal, a good nights sleep and an early wake up we head off on our way. Now, I won’t lie and say it was easy. It most certainly was not easy and at times I thought I may not be able to do it. The cold of course did not help, nor did the heat or the elevation gain. However, through sheer will and determination, we made it to the top and it is an experience I will never forget. The views were absolutely out of this world, I have never seen anything like it. It was so vast that your eyes could not seem to comprehend what you were seeing. Photos really do not do it justice.
Check out my guide to climbing Half Dome here – how to prepare for it, what you need to pack and everything you need to know to complete it safely and enjoyably!
MY TOP PICKS: The Drive along the Tioga Pass into Yosemite, hiking Half Dome.
Where we stayed: Half dome village in an unheated cabin tent (it did get very cold during the night, so a heated cabin may be worth the extra cost).
Check out the third and final part of this truly unforgettable 3 week California road trip that takes you deep into the dessert, to the bright lights of Las Vegas and the beach vibes of San Diego.
Have you done a California road trip? Let me know in the comments!
Happy adventuring,
Lorna
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