A guide to Siargao, Philippines

Our first stop in the Philippines was the incredibly beautiful Siargao, also known as the surf capital of the country. With more palm trees than we’d ever seen, a seriously cool surf vibe and the tropical weather to boot, we were instantly in love and knew that our short time on the island was not going to be long enough.

Whether you have 2 days or a whole month on the island there is plenty to do, see and eat and it will wiggle it’s way into your heart so much so that you’ll be wanting to cancel all other plans, rent a shack and live the simple island life. This is our guide to what to do in Siargao, where to eat and why it simply has to be on your Philippines itinerary.

Getting there

From Manila we took a short 1 hour flight down to Cebu, followed by another short 1 hour flight to Siargao on one of the smallest commercial planes we’d been on. The adventure starts on this tiny little plane with some of the most incredible views right out of the window. Don’t make the mistake of having your eyes glued to your phone or iPad, you do not want to miss this!

As you make the descent down to land you will immediately realise you’ve entered paradise. The palm trees line the small runway and the airport is smaller than most bus stations we’ve come across. From the airport it is a very scenic 45 minute drive to the main tourist area on the island, General Luna. There are a few different options available for how to get there – renting your own scooter, jumping in a tourist van or the option we decided to take – a tricycle. The latter works out cheaper if you’re in a pair at 500 PHP for the journey, whereas the van is 300 PHP per person. Whilst the van is quicker and arguably more comfortable there is something about having the wind in your hair as you drive through the small villages that makes the bumps easy to forget.

Note: There are direct and indirect flights from Manila but you can also get a ferry from Cebu City which is a far cheaper option. However, this does involve a number of different legs and would take over 12 hours, including an overnight ferry.

Where to stay

The island’s main tourist area is General Luna which is located on the south coast of the island. Here you will find the most infrastructure, guesthouses, hostels, restaurants and bars which is why so many chose to stay here (or nearby). We stayed a 10 minute walk away in a guesthouse called The Sunflower House which was around £26 per night for a triple room with private bathroom. As with many guesthouses in the country, the accommodation is basic but does the job.

Do bear in mind that power regularly cuts out on the island for hours at a time, meaning that you’ll be without water, electricity and internet. Plan ahead and fill buckets with water so you can still wash in an emergency. While this isn’t ideal, it’s the reality of island life for the people who live there.

If you’d prefer to get away from the main tourist hub, then another great option for you may be to stay in the smaller town of Pacifico which is located further North on the East coast of the island. There are a few guesthouses and restaurants here along with the incredible Pacifico Beach Resort if you’re in the mood to splash out. We stopped at the resort for lunch one day whilst touring the island. The view is absolutely breathtaking and the prices are surprisingly reasonable for the standard.

What to do

Surf, SUP & Cloud 9

For such a small island there really is an incredible amount of things to do. While the island is well known for surfing there is so much more to it and plenty to do if you’re not ready to jump on a board just yet. However, if that is your thing then head up to the Cloud 9 area just up the coast from General Luna. Here you’ll find countless locals offering surf lessons for very reasonable prices along with surfboard rental if you know what you’re doing already. The surf break ranks amongst the top 10 in the world and during surf season (Sept – Nov) is very challenging, exhilarating and most definitely too much for a first timer. However, during the summer months the waves do die down and become more suitable for the beginner/intermediate crowd.

If you prefer a slower pace of life, then perhaps paddle boarding is more your thing? Paddle boarding, or SUP, is becoming more and more popular on the island and with good reason. Take a tour through the stunningly beautiful mangroves or head up to Sugba Lagoon and rent a SUP to explore all that it has to offer. Either way, there are so many options for getting out on the water to suit all paces and abilities.

A note on getting around...

The next few things to do require some form of personal transport and are more than just a short tricycle ride away. As with everywhere in the Philippines (and most of SE Asia), you can very easily rent a scooter for as little as a few pounds per day. However, helmets are few and far between and we saw far too many tourists bandaged up than we’d care to say.

If you do take the plunge and jump on a scooter make sure your travel insurance covers it. Be sure to read the small print as you may not be covered without a motorbike license issued from your home country. For example, as a UK citizen you’ll need a CBT (Compulsory basic training) certificate at the very least. This is the reason that we chose against hiring scooters whilst in Asia – we weren’t insured, didn’t have a licence and are really quite fond of our skin and limbs.

If like us, you’d prefer an alternative means of transport then hiring a BINGGO tuk tuk is a fantastic option. This little buggy comes with a driver for the price of 1700 PHP (approx £26) for the day (maximum of 10 hours) and in our opinion, is more than worth the money. We were driven around the entire island for the whole day in a comfortable ride with a lovely driver who even took us to his favourite spot on the island. It also meant you could have a few beers at lunch without the worry of driving. You can also rent the tuk tuk as self-drive from as little as 800 PHP for 7 days so if you’re on the island for a long time and need to be able to get around easily, this may be worth looking into. Check out their website here for more info.

The road to Magpupungko

Leaving General Luna, head towards the Magpupungko rock pools on the east coast of the island. On the way you’ll pass incredible view points including a rather special one at the top of a hill with a view of palm trees as far as the eye can see. Pull over here, take photos and take a minute (or 30) to take in the amazing view. Another point you may want to stop at would be the rope swing that has been made famous thanks to Instagram. You can’t miss it as colourful flags line the road and there are ladies there ready to charge you a (very small) fee to have a go. Also along this road are the Tayangban cave pools – basically, if you drive in this direction you’ll come across plenty to do!

Magpupungko Rock Pools

Arriving at Magpupungko we were instantly in love. The beach itself is an absolute dream and the rock pools allow for hours of fun. Wade over around to the left from the beach to jump in and paddle in the rock pools and if you’re feeling adventurous, join the local kids in some cliff jumping from the rocks there. We did it after talking ourselves into it and trust us, it’s higher than it looks! Although this area can get quite busy (and with good reason – it’s gorgeous!), if you walk just another 10 minutes or so up the beach you can find your own little piece of paradise.

Pacifico

Heading north further up the coast you’ll reach the small town of Pacifico. As mentioned earlier in the post, it’s a great place to stop for lunch thanks to the perfectly positioned Pacifico Beach Resort. They serve local food at reasonable prices with unbeatable views of the bay. In fact, it is such a beautiful setting that it’s difficult to leave!

Alegria Beach

At the very Northern tip you’ll find possibly the best beach on the island: Alegria beach. Whilst the drive from General Luna is around 1 and a half hours, when done as a day of exploring the island it really is very doable and let’s face it, the drive isn’t exactly a chore. This area is a far cry from the busy and touristy southern coast and we found that there were only a couple of other tourists to share the beach with in addition to some local children and fisherman taking their boats out. If you have the time, it would be well worth spending the day here to really relax and escape it all.

Tak Tak waterfall

Another spot worth checking out whilst you’re up on the northern coast is Tak Tak waterfall. Siargao’s only waterfall may not rival others in the country but it is meant to be quite beautiful and there’s no harm in checking it out if you’re up at Alegria beach already. Unfortunately we did not get the chance to see it as there had been a dry spell and therefore no water, so make sure it’s the right season for it before making the trip.

Sugba Lagoon

On the other side of the island is the very popular sugba lagoon, the breath-taking lagoon that is high on the list for most when it comes to Siargao. Unfortunately we didn’t get to visit on this particular trip as we simply ran out of time (note to self: stay in Siargao for more than 4 days!) but have heard it really is incredible. Generally speaking you’d visit by organising a tour from General Luna which would include transport, entry and even lunch for a price of around 1500 PHP (approx £23). At the lagoon you can swim, relax, jump off of diving boards and even hire SUP boards and rafts to explore.

The trip can be done DIY but may be more hassle than it’s worth as it would involve getting yourself to Del Carmen from General Luna (45-60 mins) then finding a local with a boat to take you across to the lagoon. It is doable but if you’re a solo traveller or couple, it may actually end up more expensive.

Malinao

If escaping the popular, well-known spots is more your style then be sure to head over to Malinao, only a short 5 – 10 minute drive from General Luna. Our BINGGO tuk tuk driver took us here as our final stop on our day exploring the island and let’s just say it earned him a tip! The golden white sands and tranquil atmosphere is like nowhere else on the island. Here you’ll find a few locals enjoying the water but for the most part it’ll be quiet. If this place doesn’t make you want to cancel all other plans and stay there then I don’t know what will, it truly is divine.

Sunsets at Cloud 9

After an amazing day exploring, you’ll want to make sure to catch the beautiful sunset from Cloud 9 boardwalk. Even though it is a popular spot for sunset, it is still an amazing experience that simply has to be on your Siargao bucket list. Take a short walk out along the boardwalk to the end to watch the surfers in the distance while the sun sets behind them. It makes for the perfect way to end the day and you’ll get some incredible photos too.

Beyond Siargao

If you’re all adventured out on Siargao and still have some time to spare then there are island hopping tours available too to some of the small nearby islands such as Guyam island, Naked island and Daku island. Also on offer are trips to Corregidor island, a stunning island with a summit to climb if you’re in need of a challenge. As you can see, there really is an endless list of things to do on the island that will suit anyone with a love for the outdoors.

Where to eat

With all the exploring, hiking and maybe even surfing that’ll you’ll be doing you’ll be wanting some great food to keep you going. General Luna is where the vast majority of the restaurants, bars and cafes can be found and there is a surprisingly large variety of food considering it is such a small island. From local Filipino food & BBQ to sushi, excellent pizzas, tacos and smoothie bowls it has a little bit of everything to suit most tastes. We found the food to be a little more expensive than some other parts of the Philippines but there are a few cheaper, local places to try as well.

A few places we ate at as follows:

Pacifico Beach Resort: Fabulous setting & reasonably priced local food

Altrove Pizzeria: Great stone baked pizza in General Luna

Pleasure Point Cafe: To die for banana pancakes and good value breakfast set menu

Bake (coffee shop): Brand new coffee shop with air con and fancy western breakfasts

Mama’s Grill: Local BBQ style food – think skewers of meat and plates of rice with serve yourself beer fridges, however not as cheap as it seems

Shaka Cafe: Very popular breakfast spot for smoothie bowls and vegan/vegetarian options in the Cloud 9 area

Yeah Yeah Tacos: Quick and easy tacos on Tourism road, General Luna

All in all Siargao is a fantastic spot to add to your Philippines itinerary. It is becoming more and more popular by the year so be sure to get there sooner rather than later if possible. While it is widely known for it’s surfing, don’t let that put you off if that’s not what you’re into, the island has so much more to offer and some of the kindest people we’ve ever met!